The number one question I get from my clients about their skincare is: “What order do I use my skincare products?” If you love looking after your skin and getting the best our of your skincare products but are unsure about what to use and how to use them, then this blog post is written for you.

First thing’s first, a skincare routine will usually differ from morning to night, so I have divided my advice up into these two categories to make it easier, while also letting you know what I do to care for my own skin.

Morning skincare routine

The order of a basic skincare routine will look something like this:

· Cleanse

· Acid exfoliation

· Serum

· Eye cream

· Moisturiser

· SPF

However, my skincare routine is more in-depth and tailored to my dehydrated and ageing skin’s needs, so it looks like this:

· Cleanse

· Acid exfoliation

· Hydrating spritz

· Vitamin C serum

· Hyaluronic acid serum

· Eye cream

· Facial oil

· Moisturiser

· SPF

Cleansing

Many skincare gurus will advise you to always double cleanse twice a day, which is good advice, but I’m putting my cards on the table and telling you that I don’t do this in the morning. I don’t see the point if I’ve double cleansed the night before. So, with that in mind, I’d say that a good balm, oil, cream or jelly cleanser applied generously and massaged for a minute or so over the face and then cleaned off with a damp washcloth is perfect. I use either Versed Day Dissolve cleansing balm or Glossier Milky Jelly cleanser. I also have the Rose cream cleanser from Pixi, which is gorgeous.

Your choice of cleanser texture really comes down to whatever it is you prefer to feel on your skin

PLEASE do not use face wipes. These don’t cleanse your face properly and really only redistribute the oil and grime around your face. They’re also really bad for the environment. Not cleansing properly means there is a barrier left on your skin that stops your treatment products getting through, thus you’re totally wasting your money on them.

Speaking of money, my advice is not to spend serious money on cleansers unless you can afford it. Cleansers won’t change your skin, they just clean it, save your money and invest in serums because these will actually make a difference and improve your skin.

Acid Exfoliation

As a hater of traditional granular exfoliants, acid exfoliators were made for me and thanks mostly to Caroline Hirons, the skincare queen herself, they have gained massive popularity amongst those in the know.

Acids exfoliate the skin by waking it up and encouraging it to regenerate. Of course, there are different acids that do different things, but regeneration of the skin is the general gist.

In an ideal world, you’d have more than one and use them alternately according to what your skin needs, but I personally only use one type most of the time.

I favour using glycolic acid in the form of a liquid toner (I swipe it over my skin after cleansing). This stuff is great for stimulating collagen production and is also good for people with hyperpigmentation because it helps to resurface the skin. I use Pixi’s cult product Glow Tonic.

This acid exfoliator is totally iconic and really works well

Every few days, I will use a AHA and PHA scrub by Wishful called Yo Glow to give my skin even more of a regenerative boost – I am currently at war with some serious hyperpigmentation spots because I was a prat in the sun during my 20s. AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) exfoliate and stimulate collagen production amongst other amazing anti-ageing qualities. PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) help the skin restore its barrier (called the acid mantle) and prevent collagen loss.

Hydrating Spritz

As my skin is dehydrated, I like to spritz something with hyaluronic acid (HA) in it over my acid exfoliator to restore a bit of balance. As we age, our bodies produce less hyaluronic acid (which helps retain moisture in our skin), so I use a couple of different hyaluronic products. Not only is HA great for dehydrated skin, it’s brilliant for oily and acne prone skin that cannot take heavy, rich products. I am currently using Sweet Chef Ginger Kombucha + Vitamin D Chill Mist, which smells divine and which my skin drinks up happily.

Serums

I think serums are where most people get confused and overwhelmed when it comes to skincare routines. They are products that are highly concentrated and directed at problems such as ageing, hyperpigmentation and dehydration.

Now, if you’re going to invest some money in your skin, this is where to do it. I am a believer that you get what you pay for with serums (within reason), so the more you can invest in one, the better quality it will be.

There are all sorts of serums for various skin complaints and issues – hyaluronic acid serum, retinoids (vitamin A), vitamin C, niacinamide, bakuchiol. The list goes on.

I use a combination of vitamin C and hyaluronic acid serums for my morning routine because my aim is to combat ageing as well as dehydration. If you have issues with acne then you might want to try a niacinamide serum instead.

My vitamin C serum (C Tetra by Medik8) goes on first because it is better to place it directly next to the skin and then I layer my HA serum (Glossier Super Bounce) over the top of it. For me, this little combo is magical.

Vitamin C is one of the best antioxidant serums around and it also helps prevent hyperpigmentation by impeding melanin production in the skin, so this is why I use it.

Eye Cream

You can apply your eye cream before or after your serums. I do mine after most of the time. I don’t like anything too perfumed or rich round my eyes, so I favour The Inkey List Brighten-I eye cream for daytime. Again, I wouldn’t spend a fortune on an eye cream. Dark circles are often genetic and can appear worse with lack of sleep or from allergies and there’s only so much a cream can do to help. I think as long as eye cream is gentle and moisturising then that’s all you need.

Facial Oil

I don’t tend to use facial oil in the summer, but it’s my skin saviour during winter when the wind is harsh and the heating is raging at home. I have a few oils, but I’m currently using Diptyque Infused Facial Oil. I was skeptical about buying facial oil from a perfume-centric brand, but I am nicely surprised by how good this is.

I put on my facial oil either after my serums and before my moisturiser, or over the moisturiser to seal everything in and help prevent transepidermal water loss (where water from the middle layer of skin passes through the outermost layer – the epidermis – and evaporates).

Love all these oils, but the Diptyque one is really impressive

A lot of people baulk at the thought of using an oil on their face because they think it will cause acne or leave a greasy residue, but if you choose a non-comedogenic oil and don’t use too much then this should not be an issue. In fact, acne is often caused because the skin is too dry and thus it overproduces oil (resulting in clogged pores and then spots), so correctly using a light facial oil can actually help prevent breakouts in acne prone skins.

I use one drop of oil patted between my hands and then over my face, that’s it, one drop. So, don’t overdo it.

Other facial oils that I have tried and like are Neals Yard Organic Frankincense Oil, Neals Yard Organic Orange Flower Oil, The Inkey List Squalane Oil and Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Oil.

Moisturiser

If I am at home and going nowhere outside during the day, then moisturiser is the last step in my routine. I used to think that moisturiser was the most important step of a skincare routine and that it was some kind of wonder product that was going to change my skin beyond all recognition, but I can confidently tell you that I have since learned this not to be true. I mean, you definitely MUST moisturise in your routine, don’t skip this step, but unless you can afford to please don’t remortgage your house to afford a crazy expensive cream because it is not worth it.

I have tried so many moisturisers, from creams that were £100+ to those that were £3 a bottle and I don’t think they’re really that much different.

I say not to spend excessively on creams, not because I’m cheap (if you know me, you’ll know I love nothing more than spending money), but because I believe in getting the best value for your money you can and I don’t believe you are when it comes to super pricey moisturisers.

I was using a reasonably priced cream, which I really liked (Wishful Honey Balm), but then the depression of lockdown got to me, I completely ignored my own advice and bought Charlotte Tilbury’s Magic Cream. Now, this is a gorgeous moisturiser that smells nice and does a lovely job of hydrating my face, but is it any better than the cheaper creams I’ve used? No.

I also use the same moisturiser in the day as I do in the evening. I don’t see the point in having two.

So, my advice is, if you enjoy seeing a fancy face cream on the shelf and can afford to splash out then do it, but don’t expect it to do anything more for your skin than something less costly.

Other great moisturisers that I’ve used are Glow Recipe Banana Soufflé Moisture Cream, Neal’s Yard Frankincense Hydrating Cream and Glossier Priming Moisturiser.

SPF

If you’re leaving the house during the day, no matter for how long, do not skip this step. Even if your moisturiser has an SPF in it, this is not adequate protection, and you need a dedicated SPF to properly shield your skin from the sun.

I gleefully ignored all the advice to use SPF daily during my 20s and I’m now paying the price, having developed dark hyperpigmentation patches on my face.

Always use your SPF last over all the other products that you’ve applied to your face.

I don’t like heavy, strongly scented or sticky SPF, so my recommendation here bears this in mind. It is also hands down the best SPF I’ve ever used and I noticed a massive difference in my hyperpigmentation development after using it on holiday last summer (I usually get dark patches that come up under my eyes and across my top lip when I’m in the sun and I noticed this was significantly reduced when I used this cream). It’s called Thank You Farmer Water Sun Cream SPF 50. It’s great under makeup and doesn’t give you flashback if you’re taking photos.

Please, always wear at least SPF 30, but if you can then go for 50+. You will thank me later.

Evening Skincare Routine

My evening routine is almost the same as my morning routine, minus the need for the SPF step, so I won’t repeat the same information twice. I have simply added the elements of the routine that are different below.

Double cleansing

If you have worn SPF and/or makeup during the day then you need to double cleanse at night before bed. Otherwise, you won’t have removed the products and they’ll clog your pores and/or sit between your skin and the products you follow your cleanse with, rendering them useless.

All you need to do is cleanse once, wipe with a damp face cloth and then repeat. You can use two different cleansers or the same one, it doesn’t really matter.

Serums

Instead of vitamin C and hyaluronic serums, I use my retinoid serum at night for this stage of the routine.

If you are past your mid 20s then you should be using a retinoid at night if you have ageing concerns.

Retinoids are vitamin A and are scientifically proven to prevent and reverse the signs of ageing. I have seen a huge difference since I started religiously using my retinoid before bed. This stuff really does work.

When you first use a retinoid you can experience some redness, flakiness and dryness, but if you bear with it then your skin will acclimatise and these issues will stop. Simply follow the instructions on the bottle for use and you can’t go far wrong.

I have tried a few different retinoids, but my favourite is Medik8 Crystal Retinal. This is a retinal (the strongest non-prescription retinoid you can buy) and works faster than retinol. I’m impatient, so this is why I chose it. It also comes in varying strengths, so you can start off gently and move up through the ranks as your skin builds up its resistance.

You should start to see results in around a month from when you start to use a retinoid, but this does depend on your age. The older you are, the longer it will take to show results on your skin.

Eye Cream

I use a targeted retinol eye cream in the evening to keep wrinkles at bay. I like The Inkey List Retinol Eye Cream.

Peel

I will occasionally also use a lactic acid peel overnight, because lactic acid is fab for dehydrated and drier skins. I especially like to use this in winter. I use Versed Overnight Peel straight after cleansing and don’t add any more products over the top of it. I sleep in it and cleanse it off in the morning.

Each to their own…

Of course, the above are the ‘ideal’ skincare routines for day and night from the opinion of me, a professional facial therapist, but if you do something different, it works for you and you’re happy, then don’t change it if you don’t want to.

Happy skincare routining!